Tuesday, April 20, 2010

I love this country

Happy Israeli Independence Day! Actually today was Memorial Day for all the soldiers who died fighting for Israel, which was sad. I saw part of the ceremonies today in Jerusalem while I was cleaning the apartment like a good little roommate. I'm lucky enough that I don't know anyone who died in the wars in Israel, but pretty much everyone else in Israel has a brother, an uncle, or a friend who died. It's a pretty emotional day, obviously. What I think is great though, is that at sundown on Memorial Day, Independence Day begins and the partying starts. People take to the streets, drink, sing, dance, and celebrate the country they love so much. It's hard, for those families who have lost members in war, to cease mourning when the sun sets and put on their happy faces, but I actually like that it's this way. It's like we as a people are saying, "Enough. We grieved, and it won't ever really end, but enough for now. Let's turn to happier things." And then we party.

So that's what I did. I got all dressed up in blue and white and went out with friends. We had a couple drinks (delicious delicious margaritas and, for some of the guys, beers the size of my head or possibly my forearm), met up with other friends, and went to the open air market for a party. It was insane! There was this moment though, when I was dancing with two friends and we had our arms around each other and we were jumping up and down, and this group of people in front of us, who were doing the same thing but moving in a circle, saw us and opened their arms to us. In a moment, we were enveloped in this group of people we didn't know, dancing and laughing and I just looked up, smiling, and thought, "Thanks."

Monday, April 19, 2010

Vatican City, Italy 31-3-10

I just finished going through the Vatican Museum and even though I spent about three hours inside, I still feel like I didn't see even half of it! My feet are killing me and I think I'm ready for a break from museums, but it was so amazing! I saw the School of Athens fresco, the Sistine Chapel (I saw the Sistine Chapel!!), and a lot of other incredible statues, frescoes, paintings and tapestries. The tapestries were really cool. It was awesome! I can't totally believe that I've seen the originals of these works of art. It seems unreal.

This morning we got to Vatican City literally ten minutes before the Pope came out to see and address his followers. He drove around in this little car and waved at all the people and everyone was cheering and waving and I actually teared up a little! They all love him so much, and it was a little overwhelming for me to get swept up in all that emotion. I'm such a sucker for those things.

After that we did the museum and now I'm waiting for Leena, who definitely finished before me because I went super slow, but is now nowhere to be found. And of course, neither of us has a working cell phone. Well, we'll figure it out. I should probably go look for her but my feet are only just ceasing to throb. I'll give myself another minute. Maybe two.

The men in Europe are so much better dressed than American men. Like times 100. It's unbelievable. They're also better looking. I want to live here forever. In a villa in Italy or maybe France. I should probably marry very rich though; I don't think English teachers make villa status incomes. Okay going to find Leena.


Finally found Leena. After we met up (several HOURS later) we headed to St Peter's Basilica to see the Pieta. Oh my god! I mean, I don't think I gave it due reverence because we were in such a hurry but it was still amazing. It feels like...like cheating. Or something, to be seeing all of these things up close. Granted, through a pane of (probably bullet proof) glass but still. Closer than a postcard! Art is amazing. I only wish I'd realized it sooner.

Rome, Italy 30-3-10

Sitting in a church right on the Piazza Navona. There's something about Catholic churches and their beautiful art - when I came in here, I was hit with the overwhelming urge to cry. How can it be that works of art this beautiful exist? I feel like my eyes are open for the first time and I am cursing my immaturity for not allowing me to appreciate - or even remember - standing in front of Van Gogh's paintings in Amsterdam. Granted, I was about ten but still. Who knows when I'll see those again?

But now it's different. Now I'm old enough to stress out about not getting to see enough museums! It's crazy. Either way, this church (St. Agnes) is breathtaking. Every wall, every panel, every inch of the inside is decorated and beautiful. It almost makes me want to convert, except I get enough of a guilt trip from my mom (sorry, mom! I still love you); I don't need one from God too.

Actually, places like this make me kind of sad. It'll sound weird, maybe, but it's almost too bad that God is at the root of all this artwork. Without him, this art wouldn't exist. Most of my favorite music wouldn't be around either. And get God has also been the reason for countless deaths for millennia. Is it worth it? Do the benefits outweigh the costs? I don't think so - but then how do we live n a world without churches and frescoes - without the Sistine Chapel or The Last Supper? It seems wrong. But I guess if I had the answer to this dilemma, I would be the Pope. Or President.

New location: outside the Pantheon a couple streets away. The temple to the Roman gods that lies under the church is something like 2000 years old. Apparently this is a sort of anti-religious day because I think it's terrible how the Christians took all the old pagan sites and built churches on top of them. Seriously, couldn't they find their own sites?

It is beautiful though, and the dome inside is probably one of the most beautiful sights I've ever seen. By contrast to St. Agnes' and even the rest of the Pantheon, the dome is simple and relatively unadorned. It doesn't need to be fancy though, the sheer size and the incredible view of the sky and the sun shining through does it all. It's beautiful.

All of Rome is beautiful. I think it is the most gorgeous city I've ever been to. Everything is as it should be - cobblestone streets, fountains and sculptures everywhere, colorful, artsy apartment buildings with bright wooden shutters and potted plants. For right now, this is probably my favorite city on Earth.

Athens, Greece 26-3-10

Since Karly asked:

Second day in Athens. We got in yesterday and figured out the bus and metro systems to get ourselves to the hostel - a fact I am exceedingly proud of, actually. Of course, I then got my wallet stolen with a buttload of money in it. I am a genius. But that's being figured out and Mom isn't mad so it's okay. After that debacle, we checked in and settled in, then went for a walk in Monastiraki, a nice fashionable area of Athens. We had a nice dinner and pretty much went back to the hostel (Zorbas, definitely recommended if you're ever in Athens) to crash.

Besides the wallet thing, I'm pretty happy to be here. Greece is so full of history - every time you turn a corner, you find some beautiful church or ancient ruin. At night the Acropolis and Agora are lit up in gold and it's so beautiful; you catch a glimpse of the ruins between the buildings, towering up on the hill.

Today we got up early, got ready, and headed out. We tried to figure out my money situation but I think it might have to wait until tomorrow. Then we ate and headed toward the Acropolis. On the way we passed through some major parts of town, including Omonia Square and Syntagma Square with the House of Parliament. (Incidentally, syntagma is the word for constitution on Greek, which I think is really cool) It was a gorgeous day, warm and sunny (I of course got sunburned) and it was nice to walk. I don't think we realized how huge Athens was until we crossed it! It took a while and man are our feet sore. But it was good to walk it rather than taking the metro. We got a better feel of the city. We passed the National Gardens too, and I can't wait to go in! They looked beautiful, all green and carefully cared for.

Eventually, of course, we reached the Acropolis. The walk up isn't too bad - it seems daunting at first but it's very gradual and actually pretty short. The Acropolis is nothing less than absolutely breathtaking. Within the huge walls are the Parthenon and the Erechtheion. The Parthenon is unbelievable, huge columns and massive. The sculptures and art, which are actually all housed in the Acropolis Museum, are incredible. Everything is unimaginably huge and detailed. The building was the major temple to the gods, so there's plenty of sculptures and scenes all featuring them.

The Erechtheion is less awe-inspiring but still beautiful. There are these amazing statues of maidens called the Caryatides who act as the supporting pillars on one side of the building. I saw a picture of their backs in the museum and every single one has a different hairstyle, how cool is that? I love the level of detail in every piece. It's stunning.

After seeing those two, we headed out and down. I climbed up onto Areopagus Hill on the way and snapped a few shots with Leena's awesome camera. That was actually one of my favorite parts because, as I read about it, I remembered all the stuff I'd learned about it in Classics - and I was there! It was an amazing feeling.

Then we went to the museum and even though we were exhausted (like, could hardly walk), it was gorgeous! So many things, from little tiny pots and wedding vases to full statues to huge slabs of stone from the walls of the Parthenon! It must have been truly incredible in like 400 BC. I wish I'd been there.

We rested, ate, and wandered some more. Now we're sitting in a little cafe writing and drinking tea. I think we're going for a drink soon and then to bed! Tomorrow we're going to try to sail to Aegina, one of the closer islands for some beach time. Maybe we'll make it back to see another site.

Saturday, April 10, 2010

My Manic and I

I'm home at last! I got in at 4 this morning, got to my dorm at 6, and slept until 2. Now I have a crapload of homework to do that...I just don't care about. I know this that's bad and I will do it, because I always do it, but I just want to relax and be in Israel so that when I go home, I'll be a little sad to leave.

The airport was actually pretty fun last night. I got there at around 9 pm and read. When I went to get a snack I met two guys studying in Athens who were flying to Tel Aviv for a long weekend. We got to talking and eventually shared a cab into Jerusalem which was GREAT because instead of paying almost 300 shekels, I paid 95. Also they were cool and we might meet up again while they're here. It's nice to make new friends!

During the trip, since I didn't always have reliable internet, I started writing in the journal I brought so I would remember everything to share with you guys! But now I'm not sure how to do this so I'm going to ask: should I type up the entries just as a wrote them or would you prefer a Cliffs Notes version (probably in bullets or something)?

Now I have to go write a lame 2 page essay about...The Coffee Bean. As in the Starbucks of Israel. Wish me luck!